Basement Waterproofing Cost 2026: $3,000–$10,000 Typical

Waterproofing the wet walls of a US single-family basement — about 20 to 70 linear feet of interior drain tile with a primary sump, the slab patched, and a permit where the city requires one — often clusters around $3,000–$10,000. That is the typical basement waterproofing cost for that scope, and the typical interior basement waterproofing cost when the work is the drain and the pump. The $3,000 floor is a short wall. A coating, typically $1,200–$3,500, can meet that floor and is a different job. The cost to waterproof basement walls on that interior system is typically about $75–$150 per linear foot once the run is long enough to carry the crew. Exterior basement waterproofing cost is higher: typically about $150–$300 per linear foot for the excavation and membrane, $8,000–$25,000 on the wet side, and $20,000–$45,000 around the basement. The wider national spread, about $500–$45,000, covers one accessible crack injection at the low end and an exterior dig around the basement at the high end. A foundation repair, or an interior loop plus an exterior dig on the same house, can clear that spread. These are typical planning ranges, not a survey and not a quote.

This page is the work that keeps water out of a basement wall, or that collects water at the floor and sends it to a pump. A bid may call the same interior system a drain tile, a channel, or an interior waterproofing system. It is not the buried yard trench by itself, which is the French drain guide. It is not the pump in the pit by itself, which is the sump pump guide. It is not a pier or a brace under a wall that has moved, which is the foundation guide. It is not the eave and the downspout, which are the gutter guide. A coating, a crack injection, an interior drain with a sump, and an exterior membrane are different ways to read one wet basement. They are not four bills you add.

The product on the shelf is not the job. A gallon of masonry sealer, or a roll of membrane, can look cheap by the foot. The bid is the prep, the linear feet, whether the crew is inside the slab or outside in the dirt, the sump, the place the water is allowed to end, and the permit. Price the wall someone has looked at, not a per-foot rate from a forum.

The rows below are ways to read one job. They are not added together. The interior drain-and-sump row and the typical band are the same reading: the wet walls, with the pump included. The coating row is that wall painted or troweled, not a second coat on top of the drain. The crack row is injection of a stable leak. The exterior rows are a dig to the footing, at two lengths. The per-foot rows are the rate inside the job that uses them. Adding a per-foot row on top of that job double-counts the wall. The basement-size rows are the interior system at that size. The large-basement row is the interior loop. It is not the exterior loop. Use an add-on row only when the bid left that line out. The sump add-on is for a coating, a crack, or an exterior dig that did not include a pump. It is not a second pump on the interior system row.

Scope	Typical planning range
Interior sealant or coating	$1,200–$3,500
Interior drain tile and a sump	$3,000–$10,000
Crack injection, one or a few cracks	$500–$1,800
Exterior excavation and membrane, wet side	$8,000–$25,000
Exterior excavation, around the basement	$20,000–$45,000
Sealant or coating, per linear foot	$15–$40
Interior system, per linear foot	$75–$150
Exterior excavation, per linear foot	$150–$300
Small basement, about 800 sq ft	$4,000–$9,000
Mid-size basement, about 1,000 sq ft	$6,500–$13,000
Large basement, about 1,500 sq ft	$10,000–$22,500
Sump pump, existing pit, when the bid leaves it out	$500–$1,500
Dehumidifier	$800–$2,200
Vapor barrier	$500–$2,000
Permit, when the bid leaves the city fee out	$100–$500

An interior sealant or coating — a masonry sealer or a cement-based coat on the wet walls — is typically $1,200–$3,500. The per-foot rate for that coat is typically $15–$40. Eighty feet at $15 is $1,200, the floor of the job. Eighty feet at $40 is $3,200. The top, $3,500, is prep, a salt deposit to clean, or a taller wall. Forty feet at $15 is $600, under the row. The crew and the prep do not shrink to half a wall. The row meets the typical band only from $3,000–$3,500. That overlap is an expensive coating or the cheapest drain-and-sump. Ask which one the bid is. A coating and a drain are two proposals, not two lines you add.

A coating bid sometimes arrives per square foot. On a wall about 8 feet tall, $15 a linear foot is a bit under $2 a square foot, and $40 a linear foot is $5 a square foot. That is the same coat. Do not multiply by the height and add it to the linear-foot row. The cost to waterproof basement walls with a coating is this row. It is a surface treatment. It is not a trench, and it does not stop water that is under pressure at the floor joint.

Interior drain tile and a sump is typically $3,000–$10,000. That is the typical band. It is an interior channel or drain tile along the wet walls, about 20 to 70 linear feet, a primary pump, the slab patched, and a permit where the city requires one and the bid includes that fee. The floor, $3,000, is a short wall, about 20 feet, in a lower-cost area, with the pump going into a pit that is already there. Twenty times $150 is $3,000. Twenty times $75 is $1,500, under the floor, because a short run does not get the long-run rate. The top, $10,000, is a longer wet-wall run, a finished floor to match, or a wall the crew has to reach past a furnace or a stair. Eighty times $125 is $10,000. Eighty times $150 is $12,000, which leaves the typical band and stays inside the wider spread.

That interior system is not a discount on the French drain guide. A footing-depth interior trench without the pump is $65–$130 per foot on that page once the run is long enough, $3,500–$8,000 for one wall of about 25 to 40 feet, and $8,500–$18,000 around the basement. Forty times $65 is $2,600, which that page puts under the one-wall row because the saw does not shrink. This page’s $3,000 floor is shorter than that 25-foot wall. A 25- to 40-foot footing trench plus a pump is inside this band from about $4,000: the French drain one-wall floor of $3,500 plus the low end of a pump. The two pages overlap from $3,500–$10,000. They are not added. A bid that is only the trench is the French drain page. A bid that is the system, with the pump, is this row.

Basement waterproofing cost per linear foot, for that interior system, is typically $75–$150 once the run is long enough to carry the crew, about 50 feet and up. The rate includes the pipe or channel, the patch, and a primary pump. It does not include a battery backup, a dehumidifier, or a vapor barrier. It overlaps the French drain interior rate from $75–$130. The French drain rate does not include the pump. Do not add $65–$130 on top of $75–$150. That prices the trench twice. Fifty times $75 is $3,750, inside the typical band and just above the short-wall floor. Fifty times $150 is $7,500. Seventy times $150 is $10,500, which leaves the typical band by $500. Use the job row for a short wall. Use the per-foot row when the crew is already on a long run.

Crack injection of one crack or a few cracks, when the wall is not still moving, is typically $500–$1,800. The floor of that row is the floor of the wider spread. It is the same planning range as the crack row on the foundation guide. It is one repair. Do not price it on both pages. The row overlaps a coating from $1,200–$1,800. A crack and a coat of the whole wall are different work. Ask which one the bid is. If the crack is offset, growing, or the floor slopes, injection is the wrong row. That wall is a pier or a brace. Filling it does not take the place of the pier.

Exterior excavation and a membrane, on the wet side, about 50 to 80 linear feet, is typically $8,000–$25,000. That is the exterior basement waterproofing cost for the side that can be dug: excavation to the footing, the wall cleaned, a membrane, a drainage board, and ordinary soil back in the trench. Fifty times $150 is $7,500, under the floor. Fifty times $160 is $8,000, the floor. Eighty times $150 is $12,000. Eighty times $300 is $24,000. The top, $25,000, is that run with a deck, a stoop, or a tight gate. The row overlaps the typical interior band from $8,000–$10,000. A short exterior dig and a longer interior system can land in the same dollars. Ask which one the bid is. Do not add them for the same wall.

Exterior basement waterproofing cost per linear foot is typically $150–$300 once the run is long enough to carry the excavator. The low end is open soil in a lower-cost area and a straight run. The high end is depth, roots, a tight side yard, or a corner. The rate sits above a deep footing drain on the French drain guide, which is $50–$120 per foot for the pipe and the gravel, not a membrane on the wall. A drain trench and a membrane dig are different jobs. Do not add those rates. One wall, about 40 feet, is typically $6,000–$12,000. Forty times $150 is $6,000. Forty times $300 is $12,000. Thirty times $150 is $4,500, under the one-wall floor, because the excavator does not shrink to a short wall. The one-wall range overlaps the wet-side row from $8,000–$12,000. The wet-side floor is the longer run. A 40-foot wall is not an $8,000 job someone discounted, and it is not the interior $3,000 floor.

A dig around the basement, about 120 to 150 linear feet, is typically $20,000–$45,000. One hundred twenty times $150 is $18,000, under the floor, because a loop is not the cheapest foot at every corner. The floor, $20,000, is about $167 a foot on 120 feet. One hundred fifty times $300 is $45,000, the top of the row and the top of the wider spread. The whole row sits above the typical band. It overlaps the wet-side row from $20,000–$25,000. A long wet side and a shorter perimeter can meet. Ask for the feet. Do not add the wet-side row to the perimeter row. A 150-foot bid is one dig. Rock, a very deep footing, or a run past 150 feet at the high rate can clear $45,000.

A small basement, about 800 square feet, is typically $4,000–$9,000 for the interior system on the wet walls, about 50 to 60 linear feet, pump included. Fifty times $75 is $3,750, under the floor. Fifty times $80 is $4,000. Sixty times $150 is $9,000, the top. The whole row sits inside the typical band. It is a reading of the interior system, not a second line on it, and it is not an exterior dig. Fifty exterior feet at $150–$300 is $7,500–$15,000. That is the exterior rate, not the small-basement row. A full interior loop on a small footprint, about 100 feet, is the mid-size or large row for those feet. It is not $4,000 copied from the floor.

A mid-size basement, about 1,000 square feet, is typically $6,500–$13,000. Plan on about 80 to 100 linear feet of the interior system. Eighty times $75 is $6,000, under the floor. The floor sits $500 above that cheap rate because a mid-size run is not the cheapest foot at every cut. One hundred times $100 is $10,000, the top of the typical band. One hundred times $130 is $13,000, the top of this row. One hundred times $150 is $15,000, which leaves the row and stays inside the wider spread. The row overlaps the typical band from $6,500–$10,000 and leaves it above $10,000. Do not add it to the small-basement row. A mid-size bid is one system.

A large basement, about 1,500 square feet, is typically $10,000–$22,500. That is the interior drain around the basement, about 120 to 150 linear feet, with a new pit and a primary pump included. One hundred twenty times $75 is $9,000, under the floor. The floor is the French drain guide perimeter floor of $8,500 plus a new pit at its floor of $1,500. $8,500 plus $1,500 is $10,000. A pump swapped into a pit that is already open, at $500, would be $9,000, under this floor. A loop around a large basement is rarely that easy pit. The top is that page’s perimeter top of $18,000 plus a new pit at $4,500. $18,000 plus $4,500 is $22,500. One hundred fifty times $150 is the same $22,500. This row is that perimeter plus the pit. It is not a second system, and it is not the exterior loop. Do not add the French drain perimeter, and do not add the sump row on top of $22,500. The whole row meets the typical band only at $10,000 and then leaves it. A still larger footprint can leave $22,500 and stay inside the wider spread.

A sump pump, when the bid leaves it out, is typically $500–$1,500 for a replacement in an existing pit. That is the same row as the sump pump guide. Add it once, and only on a coating, a crack injection, or an exterior dig that did not include a pump. The interior drain-and-sump row, the size rows, and the large-basement row already include a primary pump. Adding this line on top of them double-counts it. A new pit, with a pump, is typically $1,500–$4,500 on the sump guide. A battery backup beside a primary that stays is typically $800–$2,000 there. A dedicated circuit the bid left out is typically $250–$700 there. None of those are inside $500–$1,500.

A dehumidifier is typically $800–$2,200 when the bid leaves it out. That is a basement unit set to drain to the sump or to a floor drain, unit included. The floor is a straightforward unit in an open basement. The top is a larger unit, or a drain line the room did not have. A portable unit the owner plugs in can sit under $800. That purchase is not this row. A whole-house unit tied to the heating system can leave $2,200. It is a different project. The size rows do not include a dehumidifier. Damp air on a cold wall, with no leak, is this row. It is not a membrane.

A vapor barrier, when the bid leaves it out, is typically $500–$2,000. It is plastic on the basement walls or over the floor area the waterproofing price did not already cover. The floor is a limited wall. The top is the lower walls of a larger room. A coating and a vapor barrier can land in the same dollars. They are different materials. Ask which one the bid is. A crawl-space encapsulation of the whole crawl can leave $2,000. That job is the crawl space encapsulation guide, typically $5,000–$15,000 for about 1,000 square feet. This page is the basement. The interior system row does not include a vapor barrier unless the bid lists it.

A permit, when the bid leaves the city fee out, is often $100–$500. The scope rows include it when the bid says so. Add it once. An interior coating that does not cut the slab or touch the footing is often the case with no fee. Do not add the row then. An exterior dig, or a drain that ties to a storm connection the city has to approve, can sit at the top of the row. Tying a footing drain into the sanitary sewer is a question for the city, not a savings.

What the range includes

The typical band assumes an existing single-family basement and interior drain tile on the walls that are wet. It includes about 20 to 70 linear feet, a primary sump, the slab patched, and a permit where the city requires one and the bid includes that fee. A short, easy wall in a lower-cost area sits toward $3,000. A longer wet-wall run, a finished floor, or a high-labor city sits toward $10,000. A coating can land on that floor from $3,000–$3,500 and is not this scope.

A coating below $3,000, a single crack injection, and a sump left out of some other bid are the rows under or beside that band. Exterior excavation, a mid-size basement past $10,000, a large-basement loop, a dehumidifier, and a vapor barrier are the rows that leave it. A 40-foot exterior wall can overlap it. A dig around the basement starts above it.

How long the work takes depends on the method and the feet, and the bid’s schedule is the one that counts. A coating is often a day. An interior system on the wet walls is often one to three days. One exterior wall is often a few days. A dig around the basement can run longer when the city has to see the wall before it is covered, or when a walk has to come back. These are typical planning spans.

Living at home during the work is the usual plan. An interior job means the basement is the work zone: dust, a cut slab, and a wet vac. An exterior job needs a path along that wall and a place to set the soil. The bed along the trench is open until the backfill is in. A household that uses the basement as a bedroom can sleep upstairs. That stay is not in the waterproofing bid.

Warranties are part of the contract, and this page is not a reading of one company’s form. A waterproofing warranty commonly covers the system that was installed — the drain, the membrane, or the injection named in the contract — and the term on labor is often shorter than any term on the materials. Some forms are written to transfer to a buyer. Whether this one does is a sentence in the form, not a feature you can assume. The warranty does not promise a different wall will stay dry, it does not cover a gutter that still dumps on the foundation, and it often expects the sump to be tested and the discharge to stay open. Read the form. The warranty is not a dollar line in the planning range.

Homeowners insurance and a home warranty are contracts too. A standard homeowners policy is built around sudden and accidental damage. Groundwater, seepage, and a system installed because the basement was never dry are the kind of loss those policies commonly exclude or treat as maintenance. Flood coverage, when a policy has it, is a separate contract. Water in a finished basement after a storm is a different question from the cost of the system. A home warranty may name waterproofing and still exclude a pre-existing wet wall, or any amount over a low dollar limit. Read the form before you treat either one as the budget. Neither one is inside the planning range.

The floor of the national spread, near $500, is one accessible crack injection. The top, toward $45,000, is an exterior dig around the basement: 150 feet at $300. An interior loop at $22,500 plus a wet-side exterior dig at $25,000 is $47,500, which clears that top. Those are two methods on two different walls, or a house that needed both. They are not the default. A foundation repair that rebuilds a wall can clear the top too. Treat a number above it as a different scope and ask which driver caused it.

None of the bands include new gutters, a yard trench on the French drain guide that this system did not already price, a battery backup or a new pit beyond what the row states on the sump pump guide, or piers and braces on the foundation guide. Downspouts that still dump at the foundation are the gutter job. A wall that has moved is the foundation job. A pump that has failed, in a system that is otherwise sound, is the sump job. Colonized drywall, once the wall is dry, is the mold remediation guide. Do not fold a pier into the waterproofing bid, and do not fold the mold removal into the drain.

As a cross-check, not a bid: 60 interior feet at $75–$150 is $4,500–$9,000, inside the typical band. Twenty interior feet at $150 is $3,000, the floor. A large-basement loop starts at $10,000, which is $8,500 plus $1,500. An exterior wet side starts at $8,000. If a bid and that reading are far apart, the bid is exterior, a full loop, a finished floor, or a dehumidifier and a vapor barrier the reading left out.

What moves the price

Driver	How it changes the bid
Method	A coating is $1,200–$3,500. Interior drain tile and a sump is $3,000–$10,000. Crack injection is $500–$1,800. Exterior, wet side, is $8,000–$25,000. Around the basement, exterior, is $20,000–$45,000. Interior and exterior are not added for the same wall.
Per foot	Coating is $15–$40 a foot. The interior system is $75–$150 a foot once the run is long. Exterior excavation is $150–$300 a foot. A short run costs more per foot than the cheap rate.
Basement size	Small, about 800 sq ft, is $4,000–$9,000 for the interior system on the wet walls. Mid-size, about 1,000 sq ft, is $6,500–$13,000. Large, about 1,500 sq ft, is $10,000–$22,500 for the interior loop with the pump.
Where the water ends	An interior system includes a primary pump. A pump left out of a coating or an exterior dig is $500–$1,500 in an existing pit. A new pit is the sump guide, $1,500–$4,500. Daylight is in the exterior row when the bid says so.
Add-ons	A dehumidifier is $800–$2,200. A vapor barrier is $500–$2,000. A permit left out is often $100–$500. A battery backup is the sump guide, $800–$2,000.
Gutters, drain, foundation	Gutters, a yard drain, a sump that has failed, and piers are separate invoices. Leaving the water on the wall is how a new system runs full every rain.
Access and region	Open soil or an unfinished basement in a lower-cost area sits toward the floor of the row. A finished floor, a tight side yard, or a high-labor city sits toward the top and can leave it.

A wet basement has a short list of ordinary causes. A gutter or a downspout empties at the wall. The soil slopes toward the house. Groundwater sits under pressure at the footing, which is the case a coating does not stop. A crack opens in the wall or at the floor joint. A window well holds water. A footing drain was never installed, or it has silted shut. Condensation on a cold wall is humid air, not a leak through the concrete, and it is the dehumidifier rather than a membrane. A supply leak is the whole-house repipe guide when the piping is the project, and a plumber either way. A sewer that backs up at a floor drain is not groundwater. None of those last two are a membrane.

Interior and exterior are the two approaches, and they answer different walls. Interior work is done from inside. The yard stays put. A drain and a sump collect water that reaches the footing and pump it out. The concrete can still be damp, because the water is managed after it arrives. That is the usual choice when a driveway, a patio, a porch, or a neighbor’s line means the outside cannot be opened. Exterior work digs to the footing, puts a membrane on the outside of the wall, and backfills. It is the approach that keeps water out of the concrete, and it costs more. It is the right reading when that wall can be reached and the water is coming through it. For one wall, they are alternatives. Adding both prices two answers to the same water. A house with a driveway on one side and open soil on the other can be interior under the driveway and exterior on the open side. Those are two rows for two walls.

Gutters and downspouts that discharge away from the house keep roof water out of the soil at the wall. A waterproofing system deals with water that still reaches the foundation. A new membrane or a new interior drain, with the downspout still emptying on that wall, runs full every rain and can silt up sooner. Extending the leaders is the gutter job. It does not dry a basement that takes water from below the slab, and a larger gutter does not close a crack at the floor joint.

A French drain is the buried pipe. An interior waterproofing system often is that pipe, plus the pump, and sometimes a membrane or a dimple sheet on the wall. Price the trench on the French drain page when the bid is the pipe alone. Price the system here when the bid is the waterproofing package. The large-basement row on this page is the French drain perimeter plus a new pit, $8,500 plus $1,500 at the floors and $18,000 plus $4,500 at the tops. Do not pay both pages for one loop. An exterior yard drain that falls to daylight is the French drain page. It is not this page’s exterior membrane.

The pump, the pit, and a battery backup are the sump pump guide. This page includes a primary pump in the interior system and names the $500–$1,500 add-on only when some other method left the pump out. An exterior membrane that drains to daylight does not need a pump. A basement with no pit, and water at the floor, needs the new-pit row on the sump page if this bid did not already cut the pit. $10,000 plus a second new pit double-counts the basin on the large-basement row. A pump that has failed inside a system that is still sound is the sump page’s replacement row, not a new waterproofing job.

A wall or a slab that has moved is the foundation repair guide. Waterproofing does not lift a settled footing, and a pier does not carry the water away. Crack injection on a stable leak is $500–$1,800 on both pages, once. If the wall has bowed and the floor is wet, price both. The foundation page’s basement corner or one wall is typically $3,500–$12,000 for the structure. It overlaps this page’s typical band from $3,500–$10,000. Ask which one the bid is. Leaving the water on a footing that was just piered is how that corner moves again. Fixing the water is still its own line. It is not included in a pier price.

DIY or hire

A careful owner can extend a downspout, fill a low spot of soil that slopes toward the wall, and roll a coating onto a wall that is clean, dry, and not under pressure. A portable dehumidifier is the same kind of purchase. The coating fails when the water is coming through the wall from outside. Painting over a wet wall, or over a salt deposit, is how a weekend project looks damp again in a month.

Hire the slab. Cutting concrete, setting drain tile, patching the floor, and tying the run to a sump are a permit in many cities and a mess to undo. Hire the excavation. Digging to the footing, the membrane, the drainage board, and the backfill against a foundation are not a shovel project, and a utility strike is the risk on that strip of yard. Call 811 before anyone digs. Gas, electric, and the sewer share it more often than the grass suggests. Hire crack injection. The resin, the ports, and the pressure are the job, and a crack that was structural is the foundation guide, not a tube of sealer.

Hire even more clearly when the basement is finished, the outside wall is under a deck or a stoop, the panel has no space for the pump, or the water might be a supply leak or a sewer backup rather than groundwater. Those are the jobs where the wrong hole shows up after the crew is gone. The pump circuit is electrical work. The pump itself is the sump pump guide.

Repair or replace

The signs of a wet basement are ordinary. Water stands on the floor after rain, or at the cove where the wall meets the slab. The wall darkens from the bottom. A white deposit shows on the concrete. The room smells musty after a storm. A window well holds water. One downspout empties at the wall, and that bed is the wet one. The soil slopes toward the house. An inspector or a buyer has named the basement. Paint that blisters on the lower wall is a clue. One puddle under a window that was left open is the window. It is not, by itself, a waterproofing system.

Is basement waterproofing worth it? Price the $3,000–$10,000 band when water is entering and a gutter extension or a regrade cannot send it away. Start with the downspout and the slope when those are the whole problem. Extending the leader is the gutter guide. A coating, $1,200–$3,500, is worth it on a damp wall that stays dry once the surface water is gone. It is the wrong purchase under hydrostatic pressure, which is water at the floor joint, a trickle through a crack at every rain, or a wall that darkens from the outside in. An interior drain and a sump is the reading then. Exterior excavation, $8,000–$25,000 on the wet side, is worth pricing when that wall can be opened and the water is coming through the concrete. A dig around the whole basement, $20,000–$45,000, is the perimeter version of that choice, not the first bid on one wet corner. Waterproofing is not worth it as a substitute for piers on a wall that has moved, or for a sump pump that has failed, or for a French drain the yard still needs. Price those on their own pages.

Does waterproofing add home value? This page does not price a sale, and it does not name a percentage. A wet basement is a reason a buyer or an inspector pauses. A documented system, with a warranty the form says will transfer, can take that objection off the table. The dollars in the range are the cost of the work. They are not an amount added to a sale price. A coating that fails the next wet season is not a selling point. A basement that is dry, with the pump maintained and the gutters discharging away from the house, is what someone can walk through. Any change in a sale price is a question for that house.

A coating on a wall that stays wet from the outside often fails and gets recoated. That repeat coat is maintenance. It is not a reason to keep buying the $1,200–$3,500 row. An interior drain and sump is often planned on the same span as the drain on the French drain page, about 20 to 30 years, and the pump is the shorter piece, about 7 to 10 years on the sump page. Those are planning lives, not warranties. The warranty form is the term that counts. Replace a run that has collapsed, silted shut, or was laid so water never reaches the pit, on the length row for the feet that still need to work. Replace a failed pump on the sump guide if the drain is sound. An exterior membrane is the long-term treatment of that wall. A membrane that was damaged when a later crew dug, or that was never carried to the footing, is a repair of that section. A repair that means opening most of the wall is the replacement.

Keep the discharge open, and test the pump before the wet season, on the schedule the sump pump guide describes. A system that ends at a pump does nothing in a storm if the pump has no power and no backup. Gutters that still dump on the wall will fill a sound drain with grit. Fix that on the gutter guide. A window well full of leaves is maintenance. It is not a new membrane.

How to use this number

Ask for a written price that names interior or exterior, the linear feet, whether a sump is included, where the water ends, who patches the slab or restores the grade, and whether a coating, crack injection, a dehumidifier, a vapor barrier, and a permit are included. Compare the wet-wall interior system with $3,000–$10,000. Compare a coating with $1,200–$3,500 and crack injection with $500–$1,800. Compare the interior per-foot rate with $75–$150, the coating rate with $15–$40, and the exterior rate with $150–$300. Compare a small basement with $4,000–$9,000, a mid-size basement with $6,500–$13,000, and a large basement with $10,000–$22,500. Compare an exterior wet side with $8,000–$25,000 and a dig around the basement with $20,000–$45,000. Keep a sump pump the bid left out, a French drain that is only the trench, new gutters, and a foundation repair as their own lines.

A very low bid on an interior system is a reason to ask whether the pump, the patch, the feet, and the permit are included, not a reason to celebrate. A quote near $3,000 should say a short wall or a coating, and it should say the pit is already there. A high bid should point at exterior excavation, a full loop, access, a finished floor, or a dehumidifier and a vapor barrier. Two or three local bids on the same feet, the same side of the wall, and the same pump are the number that matters. How this site sets the band is explained on the methodology page.